Fragrance: Spicebomb by Viktor and Rolf

They say: Spicebomb is born of the incendiary encounter between two accords with virtually opposing tones: the first is blending a heart of incandescent spices – chilli and saffron – with the all-masculine roundness of leather and tobacco, along with the distinguished brute strength of vetiver. The second is explosive, fusing fresh zesty notes of bergamot and grapefruit, Spicebomb is a burst of spices tamed by an enveloping freshness, a controlled surge of power.
 


Spicebomb is a very interesting scent. Opening notes (for me) seem to be grapefruit and tobacco. It’s not too dissimilar to Tom Ford’s Tobacco Vanille in many ways, although spicier – probably the chilli and saffron, I wouldn’t wonder. It’s definitely a night-time scent, I wouldn’t recommend it before 6pm at the earliest as it’s too much during daylight hours. It dries to down to leave you with a spicy, cinnamon vanilla combo that lasts reasonably well – 5 hours staying power, give or take.

The bottle is shaped like a hand grenade and you need to pull the “pin” in order to be able to spray the perfume. A grenade seems the obvious choice for “Spicebomb” – a miniature replica of an Intercontinental Ballistic Missile wouldn’t have had the same impact. It’s funky and still practical with no accidental spraying occurring once in a bag.

All in all, Spicebomb is a nice, gourmand scent that appeals to the mid-twenties to mid-thirties age bracket and provides a good alternative for those who want a spicy, tobacco based scent but can’t afford to buy the Tom Ford (or who want to try something similar to it).

My rating: 7/10

Grooming: Sure for Men

It is often proclaimed that in life “you get what you pay for”, the implication being that there is a positive correlation between price and quality. A lot of the time, this rings true; take perfume, for instance. As a general rule, the more money you pay for your scent, the lower the concentration of alcohol and the higher the concentration of other ingredients – “more bang for your buck” (another over used adage). There is one product upon which you don’t need to fritter away your life savings however, and that is anti-perspirant.



Sure (also known as Rexona in other parts of the world) is a brand that has been around for years – created in 1908 by an Australian pharmacist and his wife, it is the anti-perspirant that your grandfather would have used. So they should know a thing or two about the job in hand.

Two of their newest products are Adventure Dry (left) and XtraCool (right) and both promise 48 hour protection from sweat.

I first tested the Adventure Dry and instead of engaging in heart pounding exercise, I did something guaranteed to raise a sweat in half the time, namely that daily pursuit which we Londoners call “travelling by Tube”. And, somewhat surprisingly, it did do as it promised. My forehead was dripping with sweat (yuck), but the rest of me was dry and I felt, for a change, comfortable. I didn’t notice any scent from it during use, which is ideal as I wouldn’t want it to interfere with my scent (on that day, Eau San Pareil by Penhaligons).

Next up was the XtraCool, which along with 48 hours dryness, also promises a Cooling Menthol fragrance. The scent is really rather nice, refreshing and cool but not so strong as to overpower my perfume. Again, it worked in the same way as the Adventure Dry. XtraCool, I’m delighted to say, did its job.

I can’t verify whether either anti-perspirant will last the full 48 hours that it claims, I like to shower at least once (and usually twice) a day and didn’t fancy skipping my routine in order to put Sure for Men’s claims to the test. However, if you’re looking for an anti-perspirant that does stop you sweating and keeps you presentable, you won’t go far wrong here.

The icing on the cake though, is the price. Full price, they’re £3 each which is very reasonable – you use the product every day and want something reliable. At the moment, they’re on offer in Tesco for £1.45 each and Asda at £1.50 each. Bargain.

Grooming: Kyoku for Men

I came across the Kyoku brand about a year ago, when I received a bundle of products as a ‘making amends’ present from an errant lover (a frank admission, if ever there was one). The lover has since been consigned to history, however Kyoku is perhaps a lasting testament to our period together and some small recompense for a fairly frustrating time. I’ve recently purchased a selection of products myself and want to share what I think is an essential brand.

(l-r): Facial moisturiser, Exfoliating facial scrub, Razor repair balm, Body wash, Daily facial cleanser

Facial cleanser

The facial cleanser is excellent, especially first thing in the morning – a citrus menthol scent is great substitute for loud wake up call. Not much you can say about a cleanser beyond answering the question “does it clean?” and the answer is yes. Best followed by….

Exfoliating facial scrub

My favourite scrub thus far. The particles aren’t huge (and consequently it isn’t like rubbing your face with moist gravel each morning) and the smell is great – almost like fabric softener maybe? It’s also a good beard softener before a shave, it makes the shaving process a lot easier if you can give the skin a thorough clean in order to raise the hairs before you apply the razor.

Facial moisturiser

The facial moisturiser is perhaps the best I’ve used – you can use it even if you’ve got fairly greasy or oily skin and it sinks in thoroughly and fast. Best of all, it comes with SPF15 so you can use it safely in the sun (although I spend most leisure time stuck at Bank Underground station, waiting for a train). Ingredients includes bamboo, avocado oil, green tea leaf and plankton although I’m not sure how much that contributes to its fragrance – the only way I can describe it is “creamy lemon”.

Body wash - WATER

A good all round body wash (WATER is the name of the sub-brand, there are others). Interestingly, it is a body wash only but I prefer this – better to be a master at one trade than a master of none as the old adage goes. It gives a good lather and smells distinctively masculine. The packaging is also bathroom safe in that is dispenses a decent amount of product and can be used easily with wet hands.

Razor repair balm

Firstly, the smell is most intriguing – something akin to neat Pimms! Which suffice to say pleases me greatly. Razor repair balms have mixed success with me usually, I find some tend to sting more than the razor burn did originally hence they don’t seem worth it. No worries here, it soothes nicely. Red bumps are infrequent, presumably due to the inclusion of witch hazel and aloe vera.

All in all, Kyoku is a brand I love – after all, I bought the products myself (this was no freebie or sponsored post, thank you very much!). Only one fly in this otherwise unsullied ointment…the cost. They ain’t cheap (although as I’m often saying, it’s all relative) - this selection set me back nearly £120. Having said that, they should last, especially the razor repair and the moisturiser (the two most expensive). So if your man is a bit metro (and you want to bring him back to the masculine side of metro) then go on a Kyoku spree for him. I just hope it brings your relationship more success than it brought mine…

Kyoku is available from Brummells of London.

Fragrance: Molton Brown

Molton Brown is a brand I've used for some years - I am especially a fan of their bath and shower products (so luxurious!). I've got two of their fragrances so thought it made sense to discuss them together.


In the foreground is Cool Buchu EDT and in the background is Black Pepper EDT.

Cool Buchu is a light and slightly spicy citrus scent that fully deserves it’s “cool” moniker, being fresh and aquatic without losing any sophistication. It opens with a full on head of bergamot which is only slightly tempered by orange and tangerine, being nearly the tiniest bit bitter. This top stage doesn’t last long however and leaves you with a minty (they say peppermint but I detect more spearmint) sandalwood combination which is really rather refreshing. Granted, it doesn’t last for long (re-spray after two to three hours) but it’s ideal for those times when you want an unobtrusive scent, yet still smell good when you are hugged or in close proximity to others. It probably won’t get heads turning but there are many occasions when that isn’t desirable. I’ve had it about a year and it’s proved a reliable companion and is especially good for office wear.

It’s Black Pepper brother however, isn’t cool but quite the opposite – HOT. The initial waft is that of hot peppercorn oil and if you’re not into spicy or heavy fragrances then this may well not be for you. The most important notes besides peppercorn are coriander and musk – for they are predominant as the scent dries down although the peppercorn at all times is the more dominant of the three. This is definitely a perfume for men who like stronger, bolder and dominating scents, although interestingly enough it doesn’t last particularly well. You’ll need to top up again after three to four hours or wear, which is only slightly better than Cool Buchu. Having not tried the entire range of Molton Brown scents, I can’t say if this lasting power is unique to these two or to them all.

Both are available online and at Molton Brown stores for around £35, which is fairly reasonable – both scents are hardly generic and you should get a least a month from each bottle. They are also superbly presented in little boxes with magnetic strips to aid closure - if you want to buy a significant male in your life an inexpensive (relatively) yet quality gift then you won't go far wrong. Just make sure you know if he likes it first!

Cool Buchu – 7/10

Black Pepper – 6/10 (mainly because it should last longer)

Fragrance: Tom Ford Private Collection Tobacco Vanille

They say:

Part of Tom Ford's Private Blend collection, a smooth, oriental Tobacco Vanille opens with notes of tobacco leaf and aromatic spices, blending into heart notes of tonka bean, tobacco flower, vanilla and cocoa, finishing with sweet fruit accord and sweet wood sap. A complex and smooth scent, it would make a luxurious gift.
 

I say:

Firstly, I’m dispensing with the usual top, middle and base notes description here as I think Tobacco Vanille is quite linear – it more or less stays the same, but gets weaker as the hours go by. It is very much like like a vanilla scented un-smoked pipe tobacco that you (or more likely your grandfather) might have bought from an old fashioned tobacconist in years gone by. The best way to describe it would be “dark vanilla” with a hint of chocolate, cocoa and honey thrown in for good measure. Sweet and nocturnal but not sickly.

I’ve had it since last September, used it on plenty of occasions since and it’s never failed to get remarked upon. Most people like it, some think it’s a bit unusual and the “I want everything to smell of fresh air” brigade didn’t like it at all (somewhat unsurprisingly).

Do I like it? Unhesitatingly, yes. It is a wonderful and enveloping scent that reminisces of an age long past – where men smoked their pipes in their private members clubs, read their newspapers by the fire whilst sipping their scotch, without the worries of a world they could never have imagined. It's not my ultimate TF scent (more on that another day), but it's damn close.

It lasts rather well, as should be expected for an Eau de Parfum with all these strong and pungent aromas – a little goes a long way. It is definitely not an office or even a daytime scent where it would be too overpowering and frankly wasted. Best used after darkness has fallen, when you want to be at your most confident and, dare I say it, seductive.

Like all Tom Ford perfumes, this one isn’t particularly cheap (though there are much more expensive scents knocking about) – the smallest bottle (50ml EDP) will set you back £135 at Selfridge’s or Harrods, so my advice would be definitely go and sample it before even considering a purchase. Even though I've raved about it (I'm not on commission nor work for TF, I promise!), it will interact with your own body chemistry and you might not like the end result. The Tom Ford concession staff at Selfridge’s and John Lewis on Oxford Street were exceedingly helpful when I visited them and I often call in to see (or should that be smell) their latest scents. Well worth a visit if you happen to be in the area. 

My rating 9/10

Would I miss it if it were stolen? Yes, and desperately so.

Gin: Greenall’s

G&J Greenall have been making gin since 1761 (the year that George III was crowned King – he was Britain’s longest serving monarch at that time upon his death) so they should know a thing or two about making quality booze. They are responsible for at least half of the gin produced in the UK, as they produce supermarket own label gin in addition to their own premium offerings. Don’t let this put you off – Greenall’s gin is not the same as that which is sold dirt cheap in nondescript packaging.


As a brand, Greenall’s has just gone through something of a rejuvenation – out are the older (although very classy looking) labels, to be replaced with a stylish and modernistic take on the Union Flag in green. It’s available not just in 70cl bottles but also in cans, pre-mixed with tonic water. Yes, I know what you’re thinking. However, I was stuck in the Queensway area of London earlier and popped into a Little Waitrose for something to cool down. Sweating and tired, I saw Greenall’s and Tonic in the fridge and thought I’d give it a try. I found a shady bench in Kensington Gardens and sipped it back – far more satisfying than water, coke or beer and much cheaper than buying a G&T from the (busy) pubs in the area.

So, the stuff itself. Firstly, it smells like a proper gin – lots of juniper and citrus. Tasted neat it’s really not bad at all, it has a warming and satisfying finish and it the juniper isn’t overpowered (although the other botanicals aren’t all too prominent).

But the real mark of a good gin is how it is as part of a G&T. Mixed with Fever Tree tonic (my tonic of choice, although Schweppes will do if you can’t find or afford Fever Tree) it makes a lovely cocktail if a tiny bit on the sweet side. Lovely as it is, the one thing it lacks is adventure, but that is probably part of it’s charm. Citrus and coriander are definitely detectable but there is no getting away from the fact this is a traditional juniper gin.

Greenall’s is what I would call an “everyday” gin – one for a regular drinker who consumes mainly G&T. A staple gin, if you will. It’s reliable, makes a refreshing afternoon/evening drink (especially in this heat) and most of all, it’s well priced (I picked this up for £13.50 at Waitrose). During the hot summer, I’d recommend keeping a bottle on hand for uncomplicated refreshment.

Fragrance: Eau de Lacoste L.12.12 Rouge

Eau de Lacoste L.12.12 Rouge

They say:

Wrap your skin with a unique energetic, invigorating and fresh scent scent with Eau de Lacoste L.12.12 Rouge - Mandarin, ginger, rooibos and acacia wood.

I say:

Top: Rooibos (red bush) tea and mango

Heart: Black pepper and ginger

Base: Acacia wood

The fourth in the Lacoste men's scent line is the spiciest of the four and a good all rounder, suitable for a night out when you need something reliable that lasts quite well. If you don't know what Rooibos or redbush tea is (or smells like) then I'd recommend Tick Tock or Waitrose own tea bags, once you've tried the tea and been able to have a good sniff you'll be able to recognise the prominent top note here. It's probably my favourite out of the four Lacoste L.12.12 range fragrances (I must dig out the  other three!). 

Don't be fooled into thinking its a "sporty" or similar scent as it isn't - for it's price (you can snag the perfectly pocket sized 30ml for around £30) you'll struggle to find something as wearable and long lasting. It's not too heavy (spicy but not fiery) so it won't seem over the top for regular evening-wear.

My rating: 8/10

Would I miss it if it were stolen? Yes, I will probably wear it more than I first imagined.

 

Fragrance: Hugo Boss Sport

Hugo Boss Bottled Sport

They say:

The BOSS BOTTLED. SPORT man is primed to succeed: competitive, driven and ambitious. For him success is not attained by chance, but achieved through considered mental preparation. The new scent features a vigorous composition of captivating citrus top notes combined with clean, fresh heart notes over an aromatic, woody base. The result: a high-tech, energetic fragrance providing the perfect preparation for the challenge ahead.

  

I say:

Top: Grapefruit

Heart: Cardamom tempered by lavender

Base: Vetiver

Initially Bottled Sport smells strongly of grapefruit - to such an extent that you can't really pick out any other notes. However the heart and base notes seemed to blend upon dry down, creating a not unattractive fresh and spicy vetiver fragrance that would be a great "gym bag" scent. Vetiver is one of my favourite bases so naturally I like the smell. Lasting power is average at five hours or so, which is perfectly adequate - I envisage using it after a lunchtime workout - as it's not really suitable for evening-wear. The bottle is the BOSS standard design, so it's both stylish and practical - the latter attribute being very important in something destined for a lifetime of getting thrown about in a gym bag.

Where: After a gym shower on a Friday afternoon.

Would I miss it if it were stolen? Un-decided.

My rating: 7/10

The shirt the bottle is on is from the excellent Charles Tyrwhitt - www.ctshirts.co.uk

Review: Blade Runner by Origins

Blade Runner Energizing Shave Cream by Origins for Men

They say:

Just when you thought shaving was a drag, it becomes something worth waking up to. Feel blades sail with no resistance as skin-conditioning kukui nut oil, smoothing soybean oil and other plant protectors run interference between skin and blade to give you a close, friction-free shave. But it's not just stubble that gets a lift from this lightweight cream. You'll wake up with a cooling, energising boost as pores inhale refreshing Coriander, Australian Eucalyptus, French Peppermint plus many other natural revivers.

Origins is a brand I've known for some while and I like their ethos (Powered by Nature. Proven by Science). I used to think that shaving cream was a bit of a snake oil product - the razor does most of the work and the cream or gel is just there for lubrication. I'm happy to admit I was wrong. The razor and cream/gel/product are more akin to a partnership, albeit with the razor as the senior of the two. A good shave is not about the few minutes actually 'razoring', it goes beyond that and into the rest of your day, which is where a good shaving product is key.

On the whole, Blade Runner is excellent whilst you are actually shaving (very smooth) but it can be a little thick (although a good shake under running water will keep your razor clear). The scent is nice and fresh - peppermint and eucalyptus are notable. The beauty of the Blade Runner though is the aftercare; it soothes and conditions and I noticed very little redness or itching.Whilst it can be a clogging on the razor, it is light on your skin and leaves no oiliness or greasiness behind.

At £14, it might seem a little steep but it lasts - a 150ml tube would last a daily shaver at least a month, a two day (or even less regular) shaver even longer. 

My rating: 7/10

Fragrance: Bleu de Chanel by Chanel

Bleu de Chanel by Chanel

They say:

A woody aromatic fragrance for the man who defies convention, and resists the ordinary every day, finding satisfaction in the unexpected. His fragrance, a provocative blend of citrus and woods, liberates the senses — fresh, clean, profoundly sensual — a signature statement of determination and desire. Be unexpected.

I say:

Top: Lemon and grapefruit.
Heart: Incense and ginger.
Base: Smoky sandalwood.

The middle phase tends to last around four hours on average and the scent itself lasts well - as you’d expect from a brand like Chanel. It does defy convention in that takes a fairly generic formula (citrus turning into wood) and makes it something very wearable, unlike many of it’s cheaper cousins. The bottle is weighty and doesn’t let the scent down, the magnetic cap being plenty powerful enough to do its job.

Where: Good for a first date - inoffensive and sophisticated. Otherwise a good “all round” scent, can be used safely on a daily basis.

Cost: £45 and upwards (for 50ml)

Would I miss if it were stolen? Yes

My rating: 8/10

(The shirt is from an excellent Jermyn Street shirtmakers, hilditchandkey.co.uk)