Fragrance: 212 & 212 VIP for Men

Excuse the long delay between postings, charity work and late a late summer ball (or two) have taken their toll and a dose of relaxation was in order. Without further ado, let’s talk about perfume.

212 for Men has been around since 1999 and is often regarded as something of a classic, especially in South America – it should be noted that Herrera is Venezuelan by birth. It opens on a slightly green and spicy note, with additions of lavender, lemon and definitely ginger (which isn’t listed as an official top note). Let it dry down for half an hour and the ginger is retained and is combined with a dash of pepper and violet to create spicy and almost floral scent that wafts around you rather well.

Base notes of sandalwood, musk and vetiver give it a fairly dry finish which lasts nicely. Longevity as a whole is great, with it lasting a good six hours (on me). Silage is also quite acceptable but won’t blast the heads off of everyone around you. You wouldn’t think it’s a scent of the (late) nineties, it has none of the pseudo-sophistication that permeated other aspects of the decade and retains its modernity very well.

212 for Men VIP on the other hand opens with passionfruit, lime and pepper and I don’t think I have another perfume quite like it. It is meant to reflect the atmosphere of the VIP New York party scene – caviar, vodka, gin and exclusivity (whatever that smells like). Not only does it promise this, but also claims it will arouse the jealousy of those around you and convince them you are beyond a “mere mortal” and are the object of all our dreams and desires. Middle notes are listed as gin and vodka – now I don’t detect gin but do detect juniper, the berry used to flavour gin. Most people wouldn’t notice the distinction but I suppose it’s due to the fact I’ve tasted so many gins over the years! Not quite sure if the vodka is detectable or not but it is this middle phase of the scent that is my favourite – after a while, a lovely spearmint note cuts through everything and is very refreshing.

The base notes are fairly woody and amber is also rather prominent (I like a good amber base to a scent), as is leather. It is stylish and exclusive but not in the classic English gentleman style – its certainly more reminiscent of the American party animal who will raise eyebrows yet still be socially acceptable. A special mention must also go to the spray pump which dispenses the juice nice and fiercely, none of that mucking around here.

Both are available at good department stores, priced at around £35 for 50ml. Neither are priced in the premium bracket but both smell like it.

Fragrance: Chanel Allure Homme Sport Eau Extreme

The place of my travels today was Cambridge, a beautiful university town in East Anglia and home to many fond memories for me. As I was readying myself to leave (hip flask – check, fountain pen – check, book for the train – check) I pondered which scent to wear. Never an easy task, but today was an exceptional poser – I needed something formal (but not too formal), youthful (but not too youthful) and something that would go down nicely with the older generation (but not appear too old itself). Step forward Chanel Allure Homme Sport Eau Extreme.

Launched in 2012 and a follow on from the successful Allure Homme Sport, it has top notes of mint, mandarian and cypress (ranked in that order by prominence). Initially quite refreshing, it quickly mellows to reveal a heart of not too spicy black pepper and sage which lasts quite well. However, it is the last phase in which I think it finds true greatness, where white musk and tonka bean conjugate to create an base of gourmand edibility. Throughout all this, you never totally lose the mint you first encountered as a top note, but it’s very much in the background, brooding, as it were. Happily enough, Allure Homme Sport Eau Extreme EDT also lasts – it clung to me for a good eight hours, which included getting stuck behind two smokers at a rather obstinate set of traffic lights.

The only thing about this fragrance I don’t like is the name – one word in the name, to be precise. Sport. What is it doing there? There is nothing especially sporty about it, at least not that I can detect. I usually equate sport scents as being rather generic, bland and not especially memorable but neither of those adjectives apply here.

But apart from its moniker, there is nothing else to dislike. It's an incredibly reliable scent and one that will be coming with me on many more journeys!

Fragrance: Mont Blanc Legend

Mont Blanc is a brand that has been with me for many years. My (late) father first introduced me to them with the gift of a fountain pen when I was at school, and since then they have held a special place in my heart. Sadly, my pen is being repaired by Mont Blanc (the only people who can repair MB pens are MB themselves) so I can’t include in the picture, as I originally intended to.

Suffice to say, I was eager to try their latest scent, Legend. The first thing to note is the presentation – the beautiful black lacquer bottle, with signature MB logo on the top is one you definitely won’t be embarrassed to leave lying around, being sleek and stylish. The pump is also first rate (it’s not often I mention the pumps) and dispenses quite a generous amount of scent.

The fragrance itself is an aromatic fougere and opens in a fairly fruity style (apple?) which is tempered with lavender, rose and bergamot. It is very masculine and rather mature, although it isn’t so mature it would be out of place on a younger chap. The apple note lingers into the middle stage and combines with oakmoss, which then dies away to leave you with the subtle warmth of sandalwood and tonka bean. It lingers very well and sillage is good, so you won’t need to re-spray every half hour.

It’s very much suited to a chap who wants to emphasise his masculinity but without “blowing the bloody doors off”, to quote Sir Michael Caine. Legend is a subtle yet still powerful fragrance which is suited to all occasions. And despite the expensive brand behind it, you can pick up 50ml for only £37 (in Harrods). It’s rare that perfumes of this quality are so well priced. Buy.

Fragrance: Sartorial by Penhaligon’s

Sartorial is a contemporary interpretation of a classic Fougère; the traditional notes of oakmoss, tonka bean and lavender have been exquisitely stitched together with woods, ozonic and metallic effects, leather, violet leaf, honey and spices to create the perfect illusion of a tailor’s workroom. The modern thread running through Sartorial is beeswax; echoing the blocks of wax each thread is run across before stitching. This sweet smudged note ties together the more traditional elements; the oiled flash of shears cutting cloth, the rub of fabric beneath fingers, tobacco tinted cabinetry, puffs of chalk in the air and old paper patterns vanilla with age (from Penhaligon’s website). 

Head Notes: 

Aldehydes, Ozonic Effect, Metallic Effect, Violet Leaf, Neroli, Cardamom, Black Pepper, Fresh Ginger 

Heart Notes:
Beeswax, Cyclamen, Linden Blossom, Lavender, Leather

Base Notes:
Gurgum Wood, Patchouli, Myrrh, Cedarwood, Tonka Bean, Oakmoss, White Musk, Honey Effect, Old Wood Effect, Vanilla, Amber

Sartorial (2010) is one of Penhaligon’s newer fragrances for men (despite their lack of gender specific branding, I think this is definitely aimed at males) and aims to conjure up an olfactory image of a tailor’s workroom. At first, it’s very fresh and gleams rather metallically (neroli commonly adds a metallic note) but this soon calms down, thanks to a carefully blended mixture of lavender, violet leaf and a hint of black pepper (although this is by no means a peppery or spicy scent).

During it’s middle phase, it smells more akin to a barber’s shop as opposed to a tailor’s workroom – slightly soapy, rather like some of the shaving balms that old fashioned barbers apply after a cut throat razor shave, although there are still nods to it’s sartorial background, beeswax being one of the most prominent. Why beeswax, you might ask? Good one. Beeswax is commonly used to coat sewing thread, in order to reduce tangling and knotting. Leather and vanilla also play their part, making the dry down a real Proustian journey of images (although not memories). Silage (how it trails behind you, for those who don’t know) is rather good, as is longevity - If you apply it correctly (pulse points, back of the neck etc) then you should get a good six or seven hours out of it, but it depends on your own body chemistry. 

So, what do I think? Glad you asked me that. Well, Sartorial is at heart a standard fougère fragrance, but a delightful one. The individual ingredients are nicely reminiscent of a tailor’s fitting room, although the scent as a whole, understandably doesn’t smell much like a Saville Row workshop. What I do like is that it is different enough from other fougère fragrances (think Paco Rabanne Pour Homme) to make it stand out. I was able to choose a perfume out of the 34 available to me (and trust me, Penhaligon’s scent library is full of exquisite choices) and chose Sartorial over all the others.

Who would wear it? Hmm. It’s not quite one for a “Burlington Bertie”, as such a character would choose something far more ostentatious (interestingly enough, I picked this up at Penhaligon’s in Burlington Arcade, off Piccadilly), but it’s certainly one for a ‘gentleman’. Since I’ve owned it, I worn it has been a reliable partner in court (for the day job), to the opera, the ballet and two Proms concerts. On at least three of those occasions, I’m happy to say it has been remarked upon and in a most complimentary fashion too. Interestingly enough, the tailor’s workroom they refer to is that of Norton & Sons of Saville Row, whose shirt can be seen in the photograph above.

Sartorial reminds me of the age of Edwardian elegance, a period of reflection between the grandiose pomp of Victoriana, before the political and social turbulence  of the First World War. A time where great minds flourished; Somerset Maugham, Edward Elgar and George Bernard Shaw spring to mind. A time of great political orators - Britain has not since known leaders of the calibre or Lloyd-George or Joseph Chamberlain. It was a  time defined by endless afternoons in the garden, underneath a sun which never set upon the British Empire.

Disclaimer: A gentleman must always disclose - Sartorial was one of two scents provided to me gratis by Penhaligons after a fragrance profiling session. Rest assured, this did not impact upon the review. Veritas omnia vincit.

Bvlgari – Man & Aqua

I was ambling through Harrod’s yesterday afternoon (Thursday’s are so dull) and got chatting to people in the perfume department, which is all too easy, and one of the assistants asked me if I had tried Bvlgari Man. Luckily for me (not for her), I recalled that I have in fact tried it and own a bottle. For some unfathomable reason it had been languishing, along with it’s companion, Aqua on a shelf, unused for some months.

Bvlgari Man is a woody, oriental fragrance that opens with notes of bergamot and violet – right from the start however, you get plenty of nice, rich wood, mainly sandalwood. This woodiness stays throughout, once the bergamot has dried away and opens up a wonderfully soft (yet perfectly strong enough) heart. It is it’s base notes though that make me really like Man. Slightly spicy, musky wood with amber – there is something else in there that is slightly sweet, but as yet it has remained, by me at least, unidentified. It isn’t a scent for the younger man though, better suited to his older brother I would suggest. Definitely one for the evening or a formal function as it exudes class and sophistication.

Its stablemate, Bvlgari Aqua on the other hand is a lovely aquatic (surprise surprise) scent. It manages to be both light and dark at the same time, something many aquatic scents don’t manage. The sea is, after all, not a country stream – it has a dark heart, full of hidden depths. It opens with a lovely citrus (more orange citrus than anything else) blast – nothing unusual but nice all the same. It is the heart where the wafts of sea breeze come through with a wonderful seaweed note. By seaweed, I don’t mean the vulgar, methane like smell you get when visiting the coast, but a deep, dark and slightly salty note that has a definite aquatic feel. Unspecified woody notes and amber make up the base and linger surprisingly well, although it takes at least two hours for them to really shine. Where would I wear it? Hmm. I think it’s definitely a date scent.

Man is available from around £45 and Aqua from around £41.

Fragrance: Clinique – Happy for Men & Chemistry

I’ve always thought of Clinique as being something of a strange one when it comes to beauty brands – whilst others doll up their staff in chic clothing and the like, Clinique staff are somewhat sternly dressed in lab coats and give off the impression of finding themself in the wrong place at the wrong time. Yet their fragrances I’m quite partial to.

Clinique Happy for Men is a light EDT with generic citrus top notes (lime and some kind of mandarin orange I would guess, not much lemon) that dries down to a somewhat floral heart. The mid range has definitely some rose and jasmine but also feels a little “leafy”. The base notes are cypress and sandalwood and there is really no ambiguity about either of them. It’s a fairly straightforward scent that I like (but don’t wear all the time) that has served me well over the last few months.

However, it is perhaps one of the most popular fragrances I’ve known with members of the opposite gender, henceforth known as lovelies women. I can’t remember a perfume that has made the women around me comment so much as this. I don’t know if Clinique have dropped in a few pheromones but I am consistently complimented whilst wearing it. Perhaps this is why it is called “Happy”. All in all, it is a good summer fragrance for daytime use and reasonably priced, at £43 for 100ml.

Clinique Chemistry (originally launched in 1994, although not widely available in the UK for some while) is rather different – a heady mix of citrus, ginger, amber and lavender which is slightly soapy (the good soapy, that is). It really is quite unique and initially rather strong. It dies down fairly quickly however, leaving behind a slightly spicy citrus scent which is definitely more lime citrus than anything else with traces of ginger and lavender. After a while, these middle notes disappear and the base notes of cedar and sandalwood are revealed.

Throughout all this, the “soapiness'” I mentioned earlier lingers nicely and I think it is that which ultimately defines the scent. Whilst I like it (I think I like everything) I can see how some men definitely wouldn’t. But as with all scents, never buy blind. The best time to apply is straight after a bath or shower before going on – you’ll not only feel clean, you’ll smell clean. Also priced at £42 for 100ml.

Both Clinique scents are available from Clinique direct and major department stores (John Lewis, in my case).

Gin: Hendrick’s

Chances are, if you drink gin, you know of Hendrick’s. It’s dark brown olde world apothecary style bottles are a standard feature in most high end bars nowadays and it’s become the premium gin of choice for many. But does it deserve the hype?

The first thing to note about Hendrick’s is that it is not a London Dry Gin in the legal sense – it’s two most prominent botanical flavours are added after distillation, therefore it can only be called a “distilled gin”.

Sipped neat, Hendrick’s is easy on the juniper and very “rosy” and floral. There isn’t any harshness or spiciness and it’s quite drinkable. The aroma is also, unsurprisingly, floral.

The real test as always however, is part of a G&T. Hendrick’s suggest adding a slice of cucumber as opposed to citrus which I did, but only after trying it first without (with FT tonic). I can’t honestly say there was a huge cucumber presence, it is definitely the (Bulgarian) rose that is stronger and I’d be surprised if everyday drinkers (who might not be frequent “Ginners”, so to speak) could detect it if they didn’t know it was there. Adding a slice of cucumber does make for a pleasant G&T but not enough for me to switch away from citrus on a permanent basis. A second cocktail, this time with Schweppes tonic made for a slightly different experience as there was a slightly more prominent cucumber note - perhaps the subtly of Hendrick’s isn’t quite suitable for marrying up with Fever Tree tonic.

Hendrick’s seems to be a brand aimed at those who aren’t especially fond of London Dry Gin. It lacks a heavy juniper hit and whilst it’s floral notes are easily palatable, it isn’t a hard enough drink for me to want to be drinking it all night long. For all it’s gimmicky publicity (a gin that is now standard in Wetherspoon’s is hardly one that is “loved by a tiny handful of people”), it does make a refreshing cocktail and is a perfectly suitable gin to have in your cupboard. Though as I've said, the cucumber isn't my favourite note of all time, it is great if you fancy a change.

On a side note, I would be interested to know if you’ve been to Wetherspoon’s for a Hendrick’s and Tonic. A friend of mine ordered that very cocktail in a central London branch of the pub and was served it with the cucumber diced. Suffice to say, it really did have somewhat overpowering notes of cucumber, but for the wrong reason.

If you don’t especially like (or haven’t really tried) gin before, then perhaps you should give Hendrick’s a whirl. Although I would make this initial experience in a pub (£24.50 on a bottle isn’t cheap if it turns out you can’t stand the stuff) and make sure the cucumber is sliced.

Fragrance: Hugo Boss Velvet Amber

Hugo Boss have been flogging perfumes for some time – most men will, at some point, have come into contact with a Boss scent and their newest, Boss Bottled Sport, is reviewed on this very blog. Yet, whilst they are all perfectly good, acceptable fragrances, they are all aimed at the mass market. Popularity can soon turn into ubiquity and for a product that is designed to make you stand out, this isn’t ideal. So Boss have  used their roots as a tailor for inspiration and produced a new collection of 50ml EDTs, available in the UK exclusively at Harrods.

Velvet Amber grabbed me instantly – I had been looking for a reliable amber scent for some time and was very taken by it. It is smooth, creamy (yet slightly bitter) and the tiniest bit powdery. After the initial dry down, you’re left with a very sophisticated vanilla base, which retains the initial amber, resin hit and never lets go. It is also remarkable how it can be beautifully sweet without developing into something sickly – having worn it for 8-10 hour stretches, it’s definitely not a scent you end up hating. To be honest, I’m having a hard time finding the correct words to describe it. My best advice is to smell it yourself.

That said, it’s not a fragrance for daily use – it is very much in the exclusive eveningwear category. Not least because it’s only available in 50ml bottles and at £110 a time you won’t want to go coating yourself with it every time you leave the house. Lasting power is exceptional however, so when you do wear it you won’t need to be constantly re-applying. Being quite sweet and rich, you would be forgiven for assuming it would asphyxiate those around you but this is certainly not the case; Velvet Amber is noticeable but never, ever overpowering.

To sum-up, I can’t get enough of Velvet Amber. It is one of my ‘special occasion’ fragrances of choice and has proved a reliable partner when visiting the opera, the ballet and any social function I can think of. Is it really exclusive? It seems to be – I can’t find many reviews online (and almost none on blogs) and have never met another man who uses it, which leads me to believe that you’re almost guaranteed to be the only wearer at any given event. This adds nothing to the wear-ability of the perfume itself, but is very nice all the same. It also comes in a beautiful flacon presentation box and velvet drawstring bag. If you go into Harrods, you find all five scents in the series arranged in the order they should be sampled. It’s well worth a visit (presuming it’s still there!).

Velvet Amber 50ml EDT is £110 and available exclusively at Harrods.

Fragrance: Scent on a budget – Body Shop

The glass of fresh water is essential when testing perfume,  to cleanse the nose!

I’m conscious of the fact that a lot of the products reviewed here are pricey – not every man can afford to (or want to) spend a lot of money on their perfume. In that vein, I’ve selected a couple of affordable yet sophisticated scents, that have an air of quality about them.

Body Shop White Musk for Men is a lovely, light scent that interestingly moves straight to the dry-down phase. But that’s not a bad thing – the base notes are a blend of musk, sandalwood and tonka bean and all are recognisable. I’ve noticed that many men like musk based fragrances to begin with, but after a few minutes find them too heavy and too cloying - White Musk is the antidote to this problem, giving you a musky aura but without turning sickly. Adjectively speaking (if such a phrase is permissible), it’s quite a sexy scent – seductive and attractive but not bullish or brash. In the same way that white gold is the often classier alternative to pure gold, White Musk is the perfect summer scent if you want radiate understated sophistication.

Body Shop Arber on the other hand, is certainly not musky but is a slightly spicy and woody EDT, with prominent top notes of mint and coriander. Interesting that the bottle is brown, as it reminds me very much of the earth (in an excellent way, I should add). Nice as the top notes are, they don’t linger but they do leave behind a very beautiful sandalwood base note that hangs around longer than I expected it to. It doesn’t fill the room behind you (and that’s no drawback) but it will certainly be noticeable in an embrace or when you’re sat next to someone, which is what counts.  It is great for a date or romantic encounter when you don’t want to wear a generic fragrance or smell like every other guy.

To conclude, it is possible to get a good scent without spending the earth – White Musk EDT is £16 and Arber is £15.

Fragrance: Lemon scents

L-R: Avalon by Murdock (£70), Blenheim Bouquet by Penhaligons (£58), Jean-Marie Farina by Roger & Gallet (£32), Verbena Eau de Toilette by L’Occitane en Provence (£38).

The fruit of the lemon tree has been used for it’s refreshing and cleansing scent for hundreds of years and this is no surprise – is there anything that smells cleaner and crisper than a freshly halved lemon? Not only is it the perfect addition to a cocktail, it is a wonderful base for a perfume and here are my top four “lemony” scents. Links to each are in the title.

Avalon by Mudock
Like all four scents on trial here, the top note is fresh and heady lemon. Murdock claim it is a modern twist on an Edwardian recipe, so this dates it to the period 1901-1910. The initial lemon burst is strong but dries down fairly quickly, to leave you with a mixture of citrus, bergamot and lavender with lavender being stronger than the bergamot. It’s quite an old fashioned scent (mainly because of the lavender) but this gives it a definite charm. It doesn’t last especially well, but it’s marketed as a cologne so you’re not looking at getting a full day’s wear out of it. It’s quite delicate and the addition of lavender is novel. A very good lighter citrus fragrance.

Blenheim Bouquet by Penhaligon’s
Blenheim Bouquet is a perfume with an illustrious history behind it – created in 1902 for the 9th Duke of Marlborough (and named after his ancestral home, Blenheim Palace), it has been a favourite of the nobility for years – notable wearers have included Sir Winston Churchill and The Prince of Wales. The 9th Duke himself held several (minor) political offices and had two failed marriages (the latter was especially loveless) but Blenheim Bouquet harbours none of that melancholy. It opens with a nice lemon burst, again with lavender, but is nice and peppery. The initial strength lasts longer than the Murdock to reveal a base of pine and musk -  it is also after a few minutes that the lime note shines through. I chose it as one of the two perfumes I took with me after my fragrance profiling at Penhaligon’s, so it’s safe to say I like it. Staying power is good for a citrus EDT, at three to four hours and it’s the longest lasting of all four scents reviewed.

Jean-Marie Farina by Roger & Gallet
Jean-Maria Farina (a member of the illustrious Farina fragrance family) had a booming perfume business in early 19th century France (eventually bought out by Roger & Gallet) and counted among his many customers the Emperor Napoleon himself, who reported ordered up to 60 bottles of this cologne a month. Top notes are striking lemon (tempered by lime), bergamot, orange and rosemary so this is definitely more of a “citrus family” scent than a lemon scent. Again, as it’s an EDC, the top notes die away fairly quickly but it does leave a lovely woody (sandalwood and cedarwood) base behind it which lingers longer than you’d expect for an EDC. It’s also the least expensive of the four, so if you’re on a budget and want a lovely citrus perfume (with a wonderful history) then this is the one to go for.

Verbena Eau de Toilette by L’Occitane en Provence
Verbena EDT has perhaps the strongest (and most edible) opening notes of all four perfumes – it smells very much how lemon sweets should (but rarely do) taste. It isn’t the most sophisticated lemon based fragrance but makes no claims to be, as it lasts very well and it’s very refreshing and clean. It’s probably the scent out of the four I would use for lounging around the house in and I don’t mean that in a bad way, after all, if you’re going to be surrounded by a smell all day you’d have to find it pleasant. The staying power is actually rather good, you get a good couple of hours of strong citrus fragrance. Once it dries down, you’re left with a subtle mixture of lemon, geranium and rose which has a real Mediterranean feel to it. After the Penhaligon’s, it has the second longest staying power.

So, there you have it. Each fragrance has it’s own unique charms and intricacies, but remember that each one will react in different ways on different people. What lasts on me might not last on you (and by default, what doesn’t last on me might linger on you for hours). My advice – go try them all!

Gin: Brecon Special Reserve Gin

Brecon? But that’s in Wales, right? Who ever heard of Welsh gin? Well quite. However, Brecon Special Reserve is perhaps the best gin I’ve tried recently and it deserves high praise.

Firstly, one must remark on the presentation – the bottle is bottom weighted, with an elegant tall stem and a cork stopper – this alone marks it out amongst it’s competitors for class and style. But let us delve deeper…

Handily, the botanicals are listed on the front of the bottle: Juniper from Macedonia, orange peel from Spain, Chinese cassia bark, Sri Lankan liquorice, Madagascan cinnamon, French angelica root, Russian coriander, Indian nutmeg, Spanish lemon peel and Italian orris root.

The aroma upon initial uncorking is quite heavily juniper laden – the botanicals are nothing out of the ordinary, so this tends to point towards Brecon Special Reserve being a fairly traditional gin and this is true to an extent. But when sipped neat and with tonic (Fever Tree again) the overwhelming sensation is that of smoothness. There is none of the coarseness you find with other gins, this is as smooth as a freshly planed plank of the finest oak you could lay your hands on. There is a hint of spice (to me, it’s more nutmeg than the others) but the smoothness lingers and it makes a perfect cocktail. It is fairly heavy on the juniper, so might not be to all tastes, yet never becomes harsh.

Perhaps the most surprising thing about this gin though is not the taste (nor presentation), but the price. I picked my bottle up for a mere £16 in a John Lewis Food Hall, which isn’t exactly known for it’s cut price merchandising or special offers. At such a price I can’t think of a better gin for your money; it beats many prominent brands at this price point and higher. If you’re looking for a traditional, yet smooth, quality gin then this is the one for you.

Fragrance: Profiling session at Penhaligon’s

Choosing a scent these days is a tiresome affair, especially if you are a man. Go into any department store or high street shop and you’re bombarded with different smells as soon as you enter the front door. This gets progressively worse as you get to the actual perfume counter, where all and sundry are spraying scents around with gay abandon, without realising that this actually makes it harder to assess whether you like a perfume or not (or at least like it enough to buy it). The staff (in my experience) only add to this confusion, by badgering you into buy something or by recommending hopelessly inadequate, often celebrity branded scent.

Hence when Penhaligon’s invited me to attend a fragrance profiling at their Burlington Arcade (just off Piccadilly, London) store, I was only too delighted to accept. For those unaware, Penhaligon’s have been one of the cornerstones of British perfume since 1870, when William Penhaligon opened his first barbers shop on Jermyn Street. Along with their current Royal Warrants (they supply perfume to Princes Phillip and Charles) they’ve been a supplier to Queen Victoria, Winston Churchill, Princess Diana and other illustrious folk.

The setting for a profiling session is a private room above their shop (where all their 34 fragrances are on display) with complimentary tea and refreshments on hand (you don’t get that at The Perfume Shop). The profiling starts before you get to smell anything, with questions about your musical tastes (classical/opera in my case), hobbies and the like. Perhaps the most important question is where you intend to wear your perfume – it is not often you will find a scent that can be worn safely to the office and is yet suitable for an evening at the ballet, for example. Only after answering these questions do you get to smell anything, although it is well worth the wait as Penhaligon’s have a large selection to choose from – some 34 scents, to be exact.

The focus during the session is never on trying to sell you a perfume, which is rather refreshing. The only aim is to find a fragrance which suits you and you like. Being indecisive isn’t likely to get you anywhere however, as narrowing down your tastes to just two perfumes is tricky if several happen to take your fancy. You do learn a great deal about perfume and best practice for testing it – all of the samples are spritzed onto cards outside the room and you are encouraged to take a sip of water to cleanse the olfactory palate after each group of 3 scents (sipping water is much better than sniffing ground coffee, as the coffee smell will linger in your nose and affect your perception of perfume).

So what did I choose? Alas, I just couldn’t narrow it down to one but was granted a reprieve and allowed to choose two – the illustrious Blenheim Bouquet and Sartorial (more on those shortly).

If you’re going to buy a scent at Penhaligon’s then their fragrance profiling session is a must – after all, if you’re going to splash the cash on a premium perfume (they aren’t cheap) then it is imperative you choose the right one. The staff are very knowledgeable, can identify all their perfumes with just a quick sniff and are most certainly not pushy. If you’re looking to indulge yourself (or a relative), then this is an excellent and stylish way to do it.

Fragrance: Spicebomb by Viktor and Rolf

They say: Spicebomb is born of the incendiary encounter between two accords with virtually opposing tones: the first is blending a heart of incandescent spices – chilli and saffron – with the all-masculine roundness of leather and tobacco, along with the distinguished brute strength of vetiver. The second is explosive, fusing fresh zesty notes of bergamot and grapefruit, Spicebomb is a burst of spices tamed by an enveloping freshness, a controlled surge of power.
 


Spicebomb is a very interesting scent. Opening notes (for me) seem to be grapefruit and tobacco. It’s not too dissimilar to Tom Ford’s Tobacco Vanille in many ways, although spicier – probably the chilli and saffron, I wouldn’t wonder. It’s definitely a night-time scent, I wouldn’t recommend it before 6pm at the earliest as it’s too much during daylight hours. It dries to down to leave you with a spicy, cinnamon vanilla combo that lasts reasonably well – 5 hours staying power, give or take.

The bottle is shaped like a hand grenade and you need to pull the “pin” in order to be able to spray the perfume. A grenade seems the obvious choice for “Spicebomb” – a miniature replica of an Intercontinental Ballistic Missile wouldn’t have had the same impact. It’s funky and still practical with no accidental spraying occurring once in a bag.

All in all, Spicebomb is a nice, gourmand scent that appeals to the mid-twenties to mid-thirties age bracket and provides a good alternative for those who want a spicy, tobacco based scent but can’t afford to buy the Tom Ford (or who want to try something similar to it).

My rating: 7/10

Grooming: Sure for Men

It is often proclaimed that in life “you get what you pay for”, the implication being that there is a positive correlation between price and quality. A lot of the time, this rings true; take perfume, for instance. As a general rule, the more money you pay for your scent, the lower the concentration of alcohol and the higher the concentration of other ingredients – “more bang for your buck” (another over used adage). There is one product upon which you don’t need to fritter away your life savings however, and that is anti-perspirant.



Sure (also known as Rexona in other parts of the world) is a brand that has been around for years – created in 1908 by an Australian pharmacist and his wife, it is the anti-perspirant that your grandfather would have used. So they should know a thing or two about the job in hand.

Two of their newest products are Adventure Dry (left) and XtraCool (right) and both promise 48 hour protection from sweat.

I first tested the Adventure Dry and instead of engaging in heart pounding exercise, I did something guaranteed to raise a sweat in half the time, namely that daily pursuit which we Londoners call “travelling by Tube”. And, somewhat surprisingly, it did do as it promised. My forehead was dripping with sweat (yuck), but the rest of me was dry and I felt, for a change, comfortable. I didn’t notice any scent from it during use, which is ideal as I wouldn’t want it to interfere with my scent (on that day, Eau San Pareil by Penhaligons).

Next up was the XtraCool, which along with 48 hours dryness, also promises a Cooling Menthol fragrance. The scent is really rather nice, refreshing and cool but not so strong as to overpower my perfume. Again, it worked in the same way as the Adventure Dry. XtraCool, I’m delighted to say, did its job.

I can’t verify whether either anti-perspirant will last the full 48 hours that it claims, I like to shower at least once (and usually twice) a day and didn’t fancy skipping my routine in order to put Sure for Men’s claims to the test. However, if you’re looking for an anti-perspirant that does stop you sweating and keeps you presentable, you won’t go far wrong here.

The icing on the cake though, is the price. Full price, they’re £3 each which is very reasonable – you use the product every day and want something reliable. At the moment, they’re on offer in Tesco for £1.45 each and Asda at £1.50 each. Bargain.

Grooming: Kyoku for Men

I came across the Kyoku brand about a year ago, when I received a bundle of products as a ‘making amends’ present from an errant lover (a frank admission, if ever there was one). The lover has since been consigned to history, however Kyoku is perhaps a lasting testament to our period together and some small recompense for a fairly frustrating time. I’ve recently purchased a selection of products myself and want to share what I think is an essential brand.

(l-r): Facial moisturiser, Exfoliating facial scrub, Razor repair balm, Body wash, Daily facial cleanser

Facial cleanser

The facial cleanser is excellent, especially first thing in the morning – a citrus menthol scent is great substitute for loud wake up call. Not much you can say about a cleanser beyond answering the question “does it clean?” and the answer is yes. Best followed by….

Exfoliating facial scrub

My favourite scrub thus far. The particles aren’t huge (and consequently it isn’t like rubbing your face with moist gravel each morning) and the smell is great – almost like fabric softener maybe? It’s also a good beard softener before a shave, it makes the shaving process a lot easier if you can give the skin a thorough clean in order to raise the hairs before you apply the razor.

Facial moisturiser

The facial moisturiser is perhaps the best I’ve used – you can use it even if you’ve got fairly greasy or oily skin and it sinks in thoroughly and fast. Best of all, it comes with SPF15 so you can use it safely in the sun (although I spend most leisure time stuck at Bank Underground station, waiting for a train). Ingredients includes bamboo, avocado oil, green tea leaf and plankton although I’m not sure how much that contributes to its fragrance – the only way I can describe it is “creamy lemon”.

Body wash - WATER

A good all round body wash (WATER is the name of the sub-brand, there are others). Interestingly, it is a body wash only but I prefer this – better to be a master at one trade than a master of none as the old adage goes. It gives a good lather and smells distinctively masculine. The packaging is also bathroom safe in that is dispenses a decent amount of product and can be used easily with wet hands.

Razor repair balm

Firstly, the smell is most intriguing – something akin to neat Pimms! Which suffice to say pleases me greatly. Razor repair balms have mixed success with me usually, I find some tend to sting more than the razor burn did originally hence they don’t seem worth it. No worries here, it soothes nicely. Red bumps are infrequent, presumably due to the inclusion of witch hazel and aloe vera.

All in all, Kyoku is a brand I love – after all, I bought the products myself (this was no freebie or sponsored post, thank you very much!). Only one fly in this otherwise unsullied ointment…the cost. They ain’t cheap (although as I’m often saying, it’s all relative) - this selection set me back nearly £120. Having said that, they should last, especially the razor repair and the moisturiser (the two most expensive). So if your man is a bit metro (and you want to bring him back to the masculine side of metro) then go on a Kyoku spree for him. I just hope it brings your relationship more success than it brought mine…

Kyoku is available from Brummells of London.

Fragrance: Molton Brown

Molton Brown is a brand I've used for some years - I am especially a fan of their bath and shower products (so luxurious!). I've got two of their fragrances so thought it made sense to discuss them together.


In the foreground is Cool Buchu EDT and in the background is Black Pepper EDT.

Cool Buchu is a light and slightly spicy citrus scent that fully deserves it’s “cool” moniker, being fresh and aquatic without losing any sophistication. It opens with a full on head of bergamot which is only slightly tempered by orange and tangerine, being nearly the tiniest bit bitter. This top stage doesn’t last long however and leaves you with a minty (they say peppermint but I detect more spearmint) sandalwood combination which is really rather refreshing. Granted, it doesn’t last for long (re-spray after two to three hours) but it’s ideal for those times when you want an unobtrusive scent, yet still smell good when you are hugged or in close proximity to others. It probably won’t get heads turning but there are many occasions when that isn’t desirable. I’ve had it about a year and it’s proved a reliable companion and is especially good for office wear.

It’s Black Pepper brother however, isn’t cool but quite the opposite – HOT. The initial waft is that of hot peppercorn oil and if you’re not into spicy or heavy fragrances then this may well not be for you. The most important notes besides peppercorn are coriander and musk – for they are predominant as the scent dries down although the peppercorn at all times is the more dominant of the three. This is definitely a perfume for men who like stronger, bolder and dominating scents, although interestingly enough it doesn’t last particularly well. You’ll need to top up again after three to four hours or wear, which is only slightly better than Cool Buchu. Having not tried the entire range of Molton Brown scents, I can’t say if this lasting power is unique to these two or to them all.

Both are available online and at Molton Brown stores for around £35, which is fairly reasonable – both scents are hardly generic and you should get a least a month from each bottle. They are also superbly presented in little boxes with magnetic strips to aid closure - if you want to buy a significant male in your life an inexpensive (relatively) yet quality gift then you won't go far wrong. Just make sure you know if he likes it first!

Cool Buchu – 7/10

Black Pepper – 6/10 (mainly because it should last longer)

Fragrance: Tom Ford Private Collection Tobacco Vanille

They say:

Part of Tom Ford's Private Blend collection, a smooth, oriental Tobacco Vanille opens with notes of tobacco leaf and aromatic spices, blending into heart notes of tonka bean, tobacco flower, vanilla and cocoa, finishing with sweet fruit accord and sweet wood sap. A complex and smooth scent, it would make a luxurious gift.
 

I say:

Firstly, I’m dispensing with the usual top, middle and base notes description here as I think Tobacco Vanille is quite linear – it more or less stays the same, but gets weaker as the hours go by. It is very much like like a vanilla scented un-smoked pipe tobacco that you (or more likely your grandfather) might have bought from an old fashioned tobacconist in years gone by. The best way to describe it would be “dark vanilla” with a hint of chocolate, cocoa and honey thrown in for good measure. Sweet and nocturnal but not sickly.

I’ve had it since last September, used it on plenty of occasions since and it’s never failed to get remarked upon. Most people like it, some think it’s a bit unusual and the “I want everything to smell of fresh air” brigade didn’t like it at all (somewhat unsurprisingly).

Do I like it? Unhesitatingly, yes. It is a wonderful and enveloping scent that reminisces of an age long past – where men smoked their pipes in their private members clubs, read their newspapers by the fire whilst sipping their scotch, without the worries of a world they could never have imagined. It's not my ultimate TF scent (more on that another day), but it's damn close.

It lasts rather well, as should be expected for an Eau de Parfum with all these strong and pungent aromas – a little goes a long way. It is definitely not an office or even a daytime scent where it would be too overpowering and frankly wasted. Best used after darkness has fallen, when you want to be at your most confident and, dare I say it, seductive.

Like all Tom Ford perfumes, this one isn’t particularly cheap (though there are much more expensive scents knocking about) – the smallest bottle (50ml EDP) will set you back £135 at Selfridge’s or Harrods, so my advice would be definitely go and sample it before even considering a purchase. Even though I've raved about it (I'm not on commission nor work for TF, I promise!), it will interact with your own body chemistry and you might not like the end result. The Tom Ford concession staff at Selfridge’s and John Lewis on Oxford Street were exceedingly helpful when I visited them and I often call in to see (or should that be smell) their latest scents. Well worth a visit if you happen to be in the area. 

My rating 9/10

Would I miss it if it were stolen? Yes, and desperately so.

Gin: Greenall’s

G&J Greenall have been making gin since 1761 (the year that George III was crowned King – he was Britain’s longest serving monarch at that time upon his death) so they should know a thing or two about making quality booze. They are responsible for at least half of the gin produced in the UK, as they produce supermarket own label gin in addition to their own premium offerings. Don’t let this put you off – Greenall’s gin is not the same as that which is sold dirt cheap in nondescript packaging.


As a brand, Greenall’s has just gone through something of a rejuvenation – out are the older (although very classy looking) labels, to be replaced with a stylish and modernistic take on the Union Flag in green. It’s available not just in 70cl bottles but also in cans, pre-mixed with tonic water. Yes, I know what you’re thinking. However, I was stuck in the Queensway area of London earlier and popped into a Little Waitrose for something to cool down. Sweating and tired, I saw Greenall’s and Tonic in the fridge and thought I’d give it a try. I found a shady bench in Kensington Gardens and sipped it back – far more satisfying than water, coke or beer and much cheaper than buying a G&T from the (busy) pubs in the area.

So, the stuff itself. Firstly, it smells like a proper gin – lots of juniper and citrus. Tasted neat it’s really not bad at all, it has a warming and satisfying finish and it the juniper isn’t overpowered (although the other botanicals aren’t all too prominent).

But the real mark of a good gin is how it is as part of a G&T. Mixed with Fever Tree tonic (my tonic of choice, although Schweppes will do if you can’t find or afford Fever Tree) it makes a lovely cocktail if a tiny bit on the sweet side. Lovely as it is, the one thing it lacks is adventure, but that is probably part of it’s charm. Citrus and coriander are definitely detectable but there is no getting away from the fact this is a traditional juniper gin.

Greenall’s is what I would call an “everyday” gin – one for a regular drinker who consumes mainly G&T. A staple gin, if you will. It’s reliable, makes a refreshing afternoon/evening drink (especially in this heat) and most of all, it’s well priced (I picked this up for £13.50 at Waitrose). During the hot summer, I’d recommend keeping a bottle on hand for uncomplicated refreshment.

Fragrance: Eau de Lacoste L.12.12 Rouge

Eau de Lacoste L.12.12 Rouge

They say:

Wrap your skin with a unique energetic, invigorating and fresh scent scent with Eau de Lacoste L.12.12 Rouge - Mandarin, ginger, rooibos and acacia wood.

I say:

Top: Rooibos (red bush) tea and mango

Heart: Black pepper and ginger

Base: Acacia wood

The fourth in the Lacoste men's scent line is the spiciest of the four and a good all rounder, suitable for a night out when you need something reliable that lasts quite well. If you don't know what Rooibos or redbush tea is (or smells like) then I'd recommend Tick Tock or Waitrose own tea bags, once you've tried the tea and been able to have a good sniff you'll be able to recognise the prominent top note here. It's probably my favourite out of the four Lacoste L.12.12 range fragrances (I must dig out the  other three!). 

Don't be fooled into thinking its a "sporty" or similar scent as it isn't - for it's price (you can snag the perfectly pocket sized 30ml for around £30) you'll struggle to find something as wearable and long lasting. It's not too heavy (spicy but not fiery) so it won't seem over the top for regular evening-wear.

My rating: 8/10

Would I miss it if it were stolen? Yes, I will probably wear it more than I first imagined.

 

Fragrance: Hugo Boss Sport

Hugo Boss Bottled Sport

They say:

The BOSS BOTTLED. SPORT man is primed to succeed: competitive, driven and ambitious. For him success is not attained by chance, but achieved through considered mental preparation. The new scent features a vigorous composition of captivating citrus top notes combined with clean, fresh heart notes over an aromatic, woody base. The result: a high-tech, energetic fragrance providing the perfect preparation for the challenge ahead.

  

I say:

Top: Grapefruit

Heart: Cardamom tempered by lavender

Base: Vetiver

Initially Bottled Sport smells strongly of grapefruit - to such an extent that you can't really pick out any other notes. However the heart and base notes seemed to blend upon dry down, creating a not unattractive fresh and spicy vetiver fragrance that would be a great "gym bag" scent. Vetiver is one of my favourite bases so naturally I like the smell. Lasting power is average at five hours or so, which is perfectly adequate - I envisage using it after a lunchtime workout - as it's not really suitable for evening-wear. The bottle is the BOSS standard design, so it's both stylish and practical - the latter attribute being very important in something destined for a lifetime of getting thrown about in a gym bag.

Where: After a gym shower on a Friday afternoon.

Would I miss it if it were stolen? Un-decided.

My rating: 7/10

The shirt the bottle is on is from the excellent Charles Tyrwhitt - www.ctshirts.co.uk

Review: Blade Runner by Origins

Blade Runner Energizing Shave Cream by Origins for Men

They say:

Just when you thought shaving was a drag, it becomes something worth waking up to. Feel blades sail with no resistance as skin-conditioning kukui nut oil, smoothing soybean oil and other plant protectors run interference between skin and blade to give you a close, friction-free shave. But it's not just stubble that gets a lift from this lightweight cream. You'll wake up with a cooling, energising boost as pores inhale refreshing Coriander, Australian Eucalyptus, French Peppermint plus many other natural revivers.

Origins is a brand I've known for some while and I like their ethos (Powered by Nature. Proven by Science). I used to think that shaving cream was a bit of a snake oil product - the razor does most of the work and the cream or gel is just there for lubrication. I'm happy to admit I was wrong. The razor and cream/gel/product are more akin to a partnership, albeit with the razor as the senior of the two. A good shave is not about the few minutes actually 'razoring', it goes beyond that and into the rest of your day, which is where a good shaving product is key.

On the whole, Blade Runner is excellent whilst you are actually shaving (very smooth) but it can be a little thick (although a good shake under running water will keep your razor clear). The scent is nice and fresh - peppermint and eucalyptus are notable. The beauty of the Blade Runner though is the aftercare; it soothes and conditions and I noticed very little redness or itching.Whilst it can be a clogging on the razor, it is light on your skin and leaves no oiliness or greasiness behind.

At £14, it might seem a little steep but it lasts - a 150ml tube would last a daily shaver at least a month, a two day (or even less regular) shaver even longer. 

My rating: 7/10

Fragrance: Bleu de Chanel by Chanel

Bleu de Chanel by Chanel

They say:

A woody aromatic fragrance for the man who defies convention, and resists the ordinary every day, finding satisfaction in the unexpected. His fragrance, a provocative blend of citrus and woods, liberates the senses — fresh, clean, profoundly sensual — a signature statement of determination and desire. Be unexpected.

I say:

Top: Lemon and grapefruit.
Heart: Incense and ginger.
Base: Smoky sandalwood.

The middle phase tends to last around four hours on average and the scent itself lasts well - as you’d expect from a brand like Chanel. It does defy convention in that takes a fairly generic formula (citrus turning into wood) and makes it something very wearable, unlike many of it’s cheaper cousins. The bottle is weighty and doesn’t let the scent down, the magnetic cap being plenty powerful enough to do its job.

Where: Good for a first date - inoffensive and sophisticated. Otherwise a good “all round” scent, can be used safely on a daily basis.

Cost: £45 and upwards (for 50ml)

Would I miss if it were stolen? Yes

My rating: 8/10

(The shirt is from an excellent Jermyn Street shirtmakers, hilditchandkey.co.uk)